HONEY,IM JUST GOING TO TILE THE BATHROOM!

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TILING TIPSIF YOUV'E JUST WATCHED YOUR FAVOURITE HOME IMPROVEMENT SHOW IT SHOULD ONLY TAKE ABOUT AN HOUR,TOPS 'N' BE FINISHED BEFORE DINNER!..........or thats the way it would seem.The following is a means of giving a starting point and a few tips along the way on achieving the desired result.It is always a good idea to start with the floor.The floor must be dead level around the entire perimeter of the walls.Tilers will usually lay their own cement floor to accommodate this requirement.If your floor is out of level,but smooth enough to stick them straight down,thats ok too.The reason for having the floor level is to avoid cutting your first row,if your floor is out of level,do this.Just find the lowest part of the floor,immediately against a wall and mark the height of one wall tile from finished floor height.Now strike a level line around the entire room.As you place your first row of tiles on,you will have to cut a small amount off  the bottom edge of the wall tiles to stay consistantly on the line, this will avoid any small cuts at the base of your wall and give you a level row to continue off.

     

Notice the first tile has been cut to provide a full tile over the bath..

 

  1. FIND CENTRE OF ALL WALLS AND STRIKE A VERTICAL LINE FROM FLOOR TO ABOUT 300MM.
  2. STRIKE A PARALLEL LINE BETWEEN THE TWO POINTS OF TWO WALLS ON THE FLOOR AND REPEAT WITH THE OTHER TWO WALLS,LEAVING YOU WITH 4 SECTIONS MARKED ON THE FLOOR.
  3. WORK FROM CENTRE OUT AND MARK TILE POSITION IN BOTH DIRECTIONS
  4. LAY A QUADRANT AT A TME WORKING YOUR WAY OUT THE DOOR.
  5. ALWAYS USE A 10MM NOTHED TROWEL FOR FLOORS AND PLACE A FLAT SKIM OF GLUE ON THE BACK OF EACH TILE TO INCREASE ADHESION,1 TO 3MM DEPENDING ON TEXTURE OF AREA TO BE TILED.ACCURATELY PLACE ALL OF THE FULL TILES ONLY,IT'S MUCH EASIER TO CUT YOUR FLOOR IN IF THE MAIN BODY OF THE TILES ARE DRY(MAKE SURE ANY EXCESS GLUE IS CLEANED OFF THE FACE OF THE TILES  BEFORE LEAVING TO DRY).

RENDERING YOUR TILED FLOOR AREA

  1. THE FLOOR TO BE RENDERED MUST BE FREE OF LOOSE MATERIAL.
  2. USE A CEMENT BONDING AGENT,(1LT WILL DO YOUR AVERAGE BATHROOM FLOOR),THIS WILL BE USED TO "SLURRY" THE FLOOR,ADD TO CEMENT MIX & GROUT.
  3. ADD 1 PART BONDING AGENT TO 10 PARTS WATER,ADD 1 PART CEMENT  POWDER SLOWLY TO MIXTURE UNTIL COMBINED AND POUR OVER FLOOR,USING YOUR OLDEST BROOM TO SLURRY OVER THE FLOOR,WHICH SHOULD BE KEPT DAMP UNTIL COVERED WITH CEMENT.
  4. COMBINE 3 SAND TO 1 CEMENT,MIXING THOROUGHLY DRY,BEFORE ADDING WATER.
  5. ADD 1 PART BONDIT  TO 100 PARTS WATER.
  6. ADD WATER TO CEMENT MIX UNTIL IT HAS A CONSISTANTLY DAMP TEXTURE,MIX WELL!
  7. SHOVEL A LINE OF CEMENT AROUND THE PERIMETER OF YOUR ENTIRE ROOM AND ACROSS DOORWAYS
  8. USING THE ALUMINIUM THICK BED DOOR ANGLE YOU PURCHASED EARLIER,SET IT INTO POSITION ACROSS THE DOORWAY TO THE HEIGHT YOU WOULD LIKE YOUR FINISHED FLOOR HEIGHT TO BE.
  9. ROUGHLY FLATTEN OUT CEMENT AROUND THE ROOM PERIMETER TO THE HEIGHT OF ANGLE.
  10. MEASURE DOWN THE THICKNESS OF YOUR TILE PLUS THREE MM FROM TOP EDGE OF ANGLE,THIS WILL BE THE FINISHED HEIGHT OF YOUR RENDER.
  11. FROM YOUR FINISHED RENDER HEIGHT,CONTINUE SCREEDING A LEVEL LINE AROUND THE ROOM,REMOVE EXCESS CEMENT BY PUSHING A WOODEN FLOAT AROUND THE ROOM PERIMETER.
  12. PLACE ONE END OF YOUR LEVEL ON THE DOOR ANGLE,THE OTHER ON FOOR WASTE,MAKE SURE YOUR FLOOR WASTE IS LOWER THAN THE TOP EDGE OF YOUR DOOR ANGLE,THE BIGGER THE TILE,THE LESS FALL YOU GIVE IT!
  13. CONTINUE TO FLATTEN OUT CEMENT AND DRAG SCREED STICK IN CIRCULAR MOTION FROM FLOORWASTE AROUND THE ROOM,UNTIL THE SCREED STICK CAN LAY FLAT AT ANY POINT BETWEEN FLOOR WASTE AND ROOM PERIMETER.
  14. TOP ANY HOLES AND WOOD FLOAT FINISH,A STEEL TROWEL WILL GIVE AN EVEN SMOOTHER FINISH TO YOUR FLOOR.

 

HOPE THIS HELPS,WILL UPDATE SOON!!!!  

 
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