Skin rejuvenation for aging skin and pigmentation

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Clearskincare - Skin rejuvenation for acne & acne scars, sun damage, aging, pigmentation, lines & wrinkles

As we age our skin loosens and its texture changes, we start to look weathered.  The adoption of simple skincare programmes can help prevent aging, smooth lines and wrinkles and make us look and feel younger.  Firstly, we need to have a basic understanding of our skin.

Skin basics

Our skin is made up of 3 layers -

  • The epidermis, the outer skin layer that functions as the skin's protective barrier and consists of keratinocytes (skin cells) and melanocytes (pigment cells).
  • The dermis, underlying the epidermis it consists of collagen and elastin and is seperated from the epidermis by the epidermal/dermal junction.  The dermis contains hair follicles, sebaceous glands and sweat (eccrine) glands.
  • The subcutaneous layer, underlying the dermis consists of fat and blood vessels.

Epidermis - keratinocytes

Skin renewal, new keratinocytes (skin cells) are constantly made at the base of the epidermis pushing older skin cells towards the surface.  As they near the surface these older skin cells dehydrate, flatten and die where they form the stratum corneum, a virtually impermeable layer of dead keratinocytes on the skin's surface that  are now ready to exfoliate (or shed) as dead skin cells.  This process of skin renewal occurs continuously and takes around 30 to 40 days to complete.

We can degrade the effectiveness of the epidermal barrier through excessive UV exposure and excessive use of skin cleansing agents.

Epidermis - melanocytes

Melanocytes are the pigment producing cells located at the base of the epidermis.  The number of melanocytes present determines our genetic skin colour (the more melanocytes the darker the skin).  Melanocytes protect keratinocytes from mutation caused by UV radiation during sun exposure.

Melanocytes have long arms which stretch up into the upper layers of the epidermis, allowing them to make contact with many keratinocytes.  During sun exposure, melanin (pigment from melanocytes) coat the outer layer of keratinocytes protecting them from UV radiation, this is called a tan.  As these pigmented keratinocytes are pushed upwards to the surface of the skin and die, they exfoliate and the skin returns to its natural colour.

The first sign of sun damage is the vertical clumping of melanin, a freckle.  Further UV overexposure sees melanin start to horizontally clump, producing a chloasma (darkened dermal pigment staining) a type of hyperpigmentation which is very hard to treat.

Following years of overexposure to UV radiation, melanocytes can be completely overwhelmed and die, leaving small round patches of white or depigmented (hypopigmented) skin.  This is evident on the forearms of most Caucasian Australians over the age of 40.  Melanocytes can also overproduce melanin in response to hormones, skin injury, inflammation and some drugs.  The most comon reason for hyperpigmentation in the skin is UV overexposure and the second, scarring, in particular, acne scarring.

Some skins are more prone to hyperpigmentation than others and one theory postulates this may be due to the genetic mixing of different skin types eg, Caucasian/Asian: African/Hispanic: Asian/Hispanic.

Dermis

75% of the dermis is made up of collagen.  In healthy skin it is arranged in bundles in a "basket-weave" pattern, which provides the dermis with its strength and prevents tearing.  Collagen decreases as the skin ages, therefore the skin becomes thinner and sags as we get older.

5% of the dermis is elastin.  Elastin maintains the skin's tension and elasticity.  Elastin fibres decrease, fragment and lose their normal structure as the skin ages.  In sun damaged skin, elastin increases and becomes thickened and dysfunctional.  Fibroblasts are the master cells of the dermis and are able to produce new collagen, elastin fibres and the dermal matrix when stimulated.

What is healthy skin?

  • Healthy skin is smooth because of undamaged and compact keratinocytes
  • Healthy skin is firm with abundant functioning collagen and elastin.
  • Healthy skin is evenly coloured due to properly functioning melanocytes.
  • Healthy skin is properly hydrated due to richness in glycosaminoglycans (moisture holding cells in the dermis).
  • Healthy skin has continual and efficient skin renewal.
  • Healthy skin has a good blood supply.
  • Healthy skin repairs itself quickly when scratched, scraped or injured.

Which active ingredients are effective?

The cosmetic industry is expert at presenting new products with "wonder ingredients" that they claim will reverse skin aging.  Advertisements are usually accompanied by photographs of very young models or movie stars, with perfect skin and perfect makeup.  There are also 101 "miracle" acne cures advertised in magazines, TV and on the internet.  Unfortunately, very few are backed by independent research.  Even the most cursory research on medical data bases like Medline will reveal that there are very few active ingredients in skin creams that can successfully correct the most common skin problems - skin aging, acne, pigmentation and redness.

The Retinols - Retinol, Retinyl Palmitate, Retinyl Acetate

The retinols were first manufactured in the late 1980s to mimic the anti-aging effects of prescription skin creams.  Whilst not as effective as precscription skin creams, the Retinols were found to have some beneficial effects for skin aging (retinols will smooth lines and wrinkles and improve skin texture) however, the retinols have a paradoxical effect on acne prone skin - THEY CAN STIMULATE BLACKHEAD AND WHITEHEAD FORMATION.  Therefore, Clearskincare recommends using retinyl palmitate for skin aging, provided the client's skin is not acne or breakout prone.  Clearskincare New Skin cream contains a powerful 1% retinyl palmitate, the highest concentration allowable in a cosmetic cream.

Alpha Hydroxy (AHA) & Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHA)

Glycolic Acid (AHA)

Glycolic acid is one of the many members of the family of alpha hydroxy (AHA) and beta hydroxy (BHA) acids.  These acids are excellent skin exfoliants.  Other members of the family are salicylic acid, malic acid, phytic acid, citric acid and lactic acid.  AHAs and BHAs are skin exfoliants that act by loosening the bonds between keratinocytes on the skin's surface.  Acne prone skins produce and excessive amount of skin cells which clump with excess sebum to form plugs which clog the pores of the skin.  These clogged pores are blackheads, when the sebum becomes infected they turn into pimples.

Therefore AHAs are very effective exfoliants of acne prone skin and are also very effective in sun damaged skins, which are also characterised by reduced natural exfoliation, which gives them their dry crusty feel.

Clearskincare Gel Cleanser uses glycolic acid to clean and gently exfoliate the skin, reducing the formation of excess keratin and sebum (oil).  The gel cleanser is soap free, of mildly acidic pH, has no added perfume or oils and is great for removing all make up except eye make up. 

Clearskincare Smooth Skin 8% is an 8% glycolic acid cream, which is recommended for daily use in acne prone and sundamaged skins.

Clearskincare Microdermabrasion cream with gylcolic is a revolutionary exfoliating cream for acne prone and sun damaged skins.  Designed to reproduce a salon microdermabrasion treatment, a 3-5 minute wet scrub with Clearskincare Microdermabrasion cream with glycolic leaves the skin feeling incredibly smooth and soft and assists in the decongestion of acne prone skin.

Clearskincare Buffered Glycolic Acid 8% Skin Peels are safe homecare skin peels perfect for improving the appearance of hyperpigmentation such as sun spots, sun damage, hormone related hyperpigmentation, acne, oily skin, acne scarring and enlarged pores as well as being effective with uneven skin texture, loose or sagging skin, smoothing lines and wrinkles, stretch marks and mild to moderate psorasis.

Salicylic Acid

Salicylic acid is derived from willow tree bark.  Unlike lactic and glycolic acid, salicylic acid is a beta hydroxy acid (BHA).  BHAs are oil soluble, as such they are mostly used to penetrate deep into the pores for the removal of oils that contribute to breakouts and acne. 

Clearskincare 8% Salicylic Acid Skin Peels are safe homecare skin peels perfect for improving the appearance of oily acne/breakout prone skin by removing excessive oil, decongesting the skin and reducing the appearance of enlarged pores.  This product is fantastic to use in combination with the Clearskincare Acne Pack, especially for difficult to treat very oily acne prone skins.

Lactic Acid

Lactic acid is a mild AHA that is derived from milk.  A much weaker acid than glycolic acid, lactic acid skin peels are the mildest of the AHA and BHA skin peels.

Clearskincare 10% Lacic Acid Skin Peels are safe homecare skin peels perfect for improving the appearance of hyperpigmentation such as sun spots, sun damage, hormone related hyperpigmentation and rosacea as well as being effective with loose or sagging skin and smoothing lines and wrinkles.

Topical Vitamin C

Clearskincare Vitamin C Serum uses a new Vitamin C compound called "Vitagen" as it's active Vitamin C.  Vitamin C is a powerful anti oxidant but most Vitamin C solutions, serums and creams are very unstable decomposing very quickly, within days of exposure to air.  This is Clearskincare's latest vitamin C serum formulation as we constantly upgrade our formulas to the most stable Vitamin C available.  Vitagen is amino ascorbyl phosphate and has been shown in clinical tests to be significantly more stable than ascorbic acid, L ascorbic acid or magnesium ascorbyl phosphate (the most common forms of vitamin C used in other serums and creams).

In clinical trials "Vitagen" vitamin C led to a 20% decrease in fine lines and wrinkles in the eye and cheek areas.

Clearskincare 100% Vitamin C Skin Peels are safe homecare skin peels perfect for improving the appearance of oily acne/breakout prone skin by removing excessive sebum (oil) decongesting the skin and is also effective with uneven skin texture, lines and wrinkles.  The mildest of our skin peels, the Clearskincare 100% Vitamin C Skin Peels are an excellent introduction to peeling for people who are a little nervious about using skin peels.

Clearskincare 100% Vitamin C Skin Peels can also be used to make up your own Vitamin C Serums at the concentration you want, in a volume that you can use straightaway.  You will never have to worry about your serum oxidising and losing strength again.  You can make up your own serums tailored to your own needs.

Copper Peptides

Cpper peptides are a normal constituent of human plasma, saliva and urine. 

How copper peptides assist scarred and aging skin -

  • Assist the body's own wound and scar repair mechanism
  • Increase skin renewal - reduces the apearance of wrinkles and fine lines
  • Reduces the appearance of skin aging - firms the skin, reduces the appearance of small and large wrinkles, reduces blotchiness and blemishes, improves elasticity and skin plumpness
  • Reduces the apearance of sun damage - reduces visible signs of aging and increases skin density in 8 weeks

Clearskincare uses 2nd generation copper peptides, complexes of copper ions and small pieces of proteins called peptides.  The 2nd generation copper peptides are very stable, breakdown resistant copper peptides with a high adhearance to skin and tissue and are the most effective form of copper peptides available.

We have been looking for an effective and affordable product to compliment the Clearskincare homecare skin roller range that will maximise the benefits of skin needling.  We have found that product, copper peptides.  For acne scars and all indented scars, aging sun damaged skins we have Clearskincare Copper Peptide Serum .  To compliment our Clearskincare Hair Restoration Pack we have developed the Clearskincare CP Hair Tonic .

Moisturisers

The cosmetic industry has convinced us that skin ages as a result of skin dryness and that moisturisers re-hydrate the skin to restore a youthful appearance and reduce wrinkles.  Unfortunately this is not true. 

In order to address skin aging, we need to use products that have an effect on the dermis and the fibroblasts to stimulate new collagen and elastin production.  That is because the major cause of skin aging is collagen loss.  Collagen loss is determined largely by our genetics, but excess sun exposure accelerates collagen loss and leads to premature skin aging.  Traditional oil based moisturisers only have one action on the epidermis and can make the skin feel softer by filling in the spaces between exfoliating skin cells. 

Traditional moisturisers only act on the epidermis, there main ingredients being various oils that trap dead skin cells clogging pores and congesting your skin.  Moisturisers can exacerbate skin problems such as acne, rosacea, seborrhoea and clogged pores, and should be used with extreme care on acne prone skin.

Hyaluronic acid (HA) is a natural component of the serum of our dermis in which floats collagen and elastin.  HA decreases in concentration as we age.  HA helps keep our skin smooth and 'plump' looking by it's ability to hold up to 1,000 times it's own weight in water.  It is the ultimate moisturiser because of it's ability to to absorb and store water deep within the dermis.

HA also plays a critical role in the rapid repair of wounds and other conditions such as solar keratoses.  There is also some evidence that HA appears to reduce inflammation and reduces irritation from various causes such as retinoids, chemical peels and others.

Clearskincare HA Serum and our Skin Filler Pack uses low molecular weight 17% HA, the highest concentration available worldwide.  Our HA serum is 100% pure and natural, just HA and water, no preservatives, parabins, scents, sulfates, dyes or animal testing.  And like all Clearskincare products are the highest quality, most effective and affordable of their kind available.

Skin Needling

Skin needling, derma rolling or collagen induction therapy (CIT) involves the needles of a skin roller or individual needles creating micro punctures or channels through the epidermis into the upper dermis by piercing the skin.  The action of piercing the upper dermis induces the body's natural wound healing response stimulating collagen and elastin production to naturally infill indented scars, lines and wrinkles.  The micro punctures or channels created by piercing the skin also significantly increase the absorption of skincare products, applied to the surface of the skin, into the dermis.

Clearskincare homecare rollers are constructed of the finest quality stainless steel needles, mounted in the highest quality plastic autoclavable (resistant to 134 degree C temperatures) rollers and handles.  Clearskincare rollers are designed to be reused.  Used daily and cared for as directed Clearskincare homecare rollers will last for 12 months.

There are 3 skin rollers in the Clearskincare homecare roller range.  The Clearskincare Skin & Scalp Roller (0.75mm needle length, 0.25mm gauge) is designed to maximise results for improving the appearance of indented scars (including acne, chicken pox and surgical), stretch marks, advanced sun damage, lines and wrinkles as well as thinning hair (alopecia).  The Clearskincare Skin & Scalp Roller comes in 2 versions, Clearskincare Skin & Scalp 48 needle Roller and the Clearskincare Skin & Scalp 96 needle roller .

Clearskincare Face Roller (0.3mm needle length, 0.25mm gauge) is designed to create tiny channels through the stratum corneum to significantly increase the absortption of skin care products and perform dermal massage.  The Clearskincare Face Roller helps reduce the appearance of fine lines, open pores and uneven pigmentation and restores the skin's natural plumpness.  Regular use delivers healthier, smoother and clearer skin.

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