Blood on Clothes: Pour peroxide on blood and rinse with cold water. If some blood remains, repeat.
Burn/Scorch Marks: If the fabric is washable, brush it gently with a soft brush or dry sponge to remove loose carbon particles. &nbswpThen, wash the fabric with regular detergent and color-safe bleach. This will permanently weaken the fabric even more than the scorch has, but the scorch may no longer be noticeable.
Burnt Stuff on Iron: Rub iron with aluminum foil to remove burnt on starch, etc.
Deodorant Stains on the Underarms of Washable Shirts: Sponge on white vinegar (or soak stain in it); wait 30 minutes. Wash shirts in the hottest water safe for the fabric. Using an enzyme detergent or a detergent with bleach alternative (check care labels to be sure this is okay).
You can also try putting liquid laundry detergent right on the area, leave it for 5 to 10 minutes, then wash.
To prevent: Let deodorant dry before dressing and don't let stains sit! Apply prewash spray or liquid detergent ASAP, then wash. Every third or fourth washing, use the hottest water safe for the shirts.
Perspiration Stains/Odor: Soak the stained shirt in equal parts ammonia and water and add a few Tbsps. of liquid dish soap. Soak overnight. Then, wash as usual.
Fabric Softener: Use an old dish towel as a fabric softener sheet. Pour a couple of capfuls of Downey on it and throw it in the dryer. It will take over a year to go thru a small bottle of Downey fabric softener. You can use the towel for about 15 loads or until you notice a little static.
Fading: Turn dark clothes inside out and wash in the coolest water possible then dry on low heat. For all-black clothes, throw in a box of black Rit® dye every 8-10 washes to keep black clothes black.
Gasoline On Clothing: Since gasoline is an oil based product, use another oil based product to pull out the odor. You can use any kind of oil that normally washes out of clothing, like baby oil. Put a little of the oil into the washer along with the clothing that has the gasoline on it. Allow it to swish around for a little while before you add the detergent.
Grass Stains: Rub on Karo Syrup and wash as usual.
Gum On Clothing: Brush egg white onto gum with a toothbrush and let sit for 15 minutes and then launder on the items normally.
Ink Stains: The best way to get ink out is to put rubbing alcohol on the stain, before the clothing is washed - it disappears!
Lipstick Stains: Use petroleum jelly for removing lipstick stains or rub a little vegetable shortening on the stain and then launder as normal.
Mildew Stains: Shake or brush the item to remove loose growth. Presoak in cold water. Wash in hot water with heavy duty detergent.
For whites, add 1/2 cup bleach. For colors, use color-safe bleach.
If the stain remains on white items, repeat washing before drying.
Dry thoroughly after the mildew has been removed - heat and sun tend to kill mildew.
Rust and Mineral Stains: Add 1 cup of bottled lemon juice to the wash water to remove discoloration from cotton laundry.
Soiled Shirt Collars: Using a small paintbrush, brush shampoo into soiled shirt collars before laundering. Shampoo is made to dissolve body oils.
Stains on Clothes: Rub on Colgate Toothpaste and wash as usual.
Spaghetti Stains: Wet the fabric and then sprinkle with powdered dish detergent. Scrub gently with a toothbrush. Rinse the item and launder normally.
White-Out/Liquid Paper and Permanent Marker Stains: Dab some sunscreen over the stain and rub off with a paper towel. Repeat until stain is gone.
Now that your laundry is done ...
For a fresher laundry basket place a fabric softener sheet in the bottom of your laundry basket (remember to change it weekly.) or sprinkle some baking soda in the bottom of the basket to help absorb the odors.
In the linen closet, place cotton balls that have been sprayed with your favorite scent. Once they are dry, place them in the corners and on the shelves.
When you travel carry a stain pretreatment stick. Taking the time to use it on stains before they set ensures that they will wash out much easier when you get home.