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Details about  Wheel Bearing Kit Japanese Koyo Toyota Landcruiser 60 62 70 75 80 105 series

Wheel Bearing Kit Japanese Koyo Toyota Landcruiser 60 62 70 75 80 105 series

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Brand New
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AU $60.00
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Item location:
Rye, VIC, Australia
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Last updated on  04 Jan, 2015 22:19:10 AEDST  View all revisions

Item specifics

Brand New: A brand-new, unused, unopened, undamaged item in its original packaging (where packaging is ... Read moreabout the condition

1 x Brand New set of Japanese Koyo Wheel Bearings for the following applications..

  • Landcruiser Fronts 1975-1990 all 40 45 47 55 60 61 62 70 73 75 80 series
  • Landcruiser Fronts 1990 - 1998 70 73 75 80 series which have drum brake rear
  • Landcruiser Fronts 1990-1998 70 75 80 series which have disc brake rear
  • Landcruiser Fronts 1998 - 2007 all 78 79 series
  • Landcruiser Fronts 1998 - 2007 100 105 series with live axle front (Not IFS)
  • Landcruiser Fronts 2007 - 2012 76 78 79 series 
  • Landcruiser Rears 1975 - 1990 all 40 45 47 55 60 61 62 70 73 75 80 series 
  • Landcruiser Rears 1969 to 1975 40 45 47 series (full floating rear end)
  • Landcruiser Rears 1990 - 1998 70 73 75 80 series with drum brake rear 
  • Landcruiser Rear 1998 - 2007 78 79 series which have drum brakes
  • Hilux 4WD Fronts - all models with leaf springs in front
  • Surf Fronts 1984 to 1986
  • Bundera Fronts 1984 to 1991
  • Dyna 4WD Fronts 1989 - 1995
  • Dyna Dual Wheel Rear 1985 - 1987
  • Hi-Ace Dual Wheel Rear 1979 - 1985
  • Forerunner Fronts with leaf springs in front 

Come as pictured above with inner and outer bearings and cups, tab washer, hub seal and all the gaskets you will need. 

This is all you need to rebuild one side. I have listed multiple quantities - if you want x 2 then nominate a qty of 2 in the box when you click "buy now". 

Koyo is one of the leading brands in bearings. 

Many of us dont realise the bearings have had it until they begin making a noise. By then it's desperately too late and well into being dangerous. When a bearing fails totally it can sieze, the wheel could fall off or it completely destroys the spindle, free wheeling hub and CV joint and in just about every case the vehicle can not be driven or towed unless on the back of a truck or trailer. And yet it can all be avoided. 

At various service intervals jack the wheel off the ground and look for sideways play by grabbing top and bottom of tyre and wobbling. There should be no play at all. Also make sure the wheel spins freely and the only noise you should hear is perhaps some brake pads touching discs or drums. 

The following can damage a wheel bearing..

  • Bearing nuts being too tight or too loose
  • Water
  • Grit, sand and dirt (usually from beach runs or muddy bog holes)
  • If your axle seal is shot or you have a worn groove in the axle the diff oil will get into the swivel housing where the V joint is and eventually wash the grease out of the CV and wheel bearings - makes for a messy and expensive repair for the sake of a $10 inner axle seal. 
In this ebay store I also sell hub sockets (refer below). They are about the only tool you might not have in the shed.
Here's a guide to replacing wheel bearings..
  • Jack the wheel off the ground and remove wheel. (Note for adjustment you can leave wheel and brakes on).
  • Remove brake pads
  • Remove brake caliper - note leave brake line in place and this will mean you dont need to bleed brakes later.
  • Remove free wheeling hub face 
  • Remove snap ring from end of CV axle shaft.
  • Remove free wheeling hub body (or drive flange for non free wheel hubs). May require gentle tap on side to spring cone washers free.
  • Using hammer and cold chisel gently open locking tabs that hold bearing nut in place.
  • Using hub socket remove outer bearing nut. 
  • Remove Tab Washer
  • Using hub socket remove inner bearing nut.
  • Remove washer with locating tab
  • Wobble wheel hub and outer bearing will come loose and remove
  • Remove wheel hub.
  • Using brass drift or cold chisel knock old hub seal out by approaching from far side. 
  • Inner bearing will come out. 
  • Using brass drift or cold chisel from opposite side tap the old bearing cups out. 
  • Clean wheel hub.
  • Gently tap both new bearing cups into place - easy to work out which one as they are different sizes and you cant mix them up. 
  • Load inside of wheel hub with plenty of fresh grease.
  • Pack inner bearing with grease ensuring the grease gets in around all the rollers. Best method is having a gob of grease in the palm of one hand and with the other hand stroke the bearing against your greasy palm so that the grease gets inside. work it a while and you will know when it's done right. If you have to ask then you probably haven't done it enough.
  • Fit inner bearing into the bearing cup in the wheel hub.
  • Fit new hub seal with plane side out being careful not to damage it. A tip is to hold the old bearing cup against the new seal and tap the old cup gently with a hammer. 
  • Fit wheel hub onto car over the spindle, making sure it goes all the way on.
  • Grease up outer bearing same as inner and fit bearing into hub.
  • Fit thick washer with locating tab.
  • Fit inner wheel bearing nut and tighten with hub socket. Spin wheel hubs a few times to bed bearings in as grease and air bubbles will restrict it bedding in all the way. It's often a good idea to tighten more than desired and spin for a bit. Then back off. Technically we should use a torque wrench and tighten to a certain point but I'm yet to find a mechanic that does this. They will tighten up then back off a bit so it spins freely but not so much that it gets loose. 
  • At this point (we haven't yet fitted the locking tab or second bearing nut) refit the brake calipers and brake pads and refit the wheel. 
  • Now with the wheel on spin the wheel and make sure it is not slowed down by the bearing being too tight and that there is no top to bottom play by rocking the wheel sideways. If there is any play at all then nip that bearing up a little more. 
  • When happy with bearing nut tightness fit the tab washer and knock one tab over the inner nut to prevent it from turning.
  • Fit the outer bearing nut ensuring it is tight with the hub socket.
  • Pull another tab on the tab washer towards you and lock it over the outer bearing nut.
  • Pack some more grease in there for good measure and refit the free wheeling hub body. 
  • Fit the snap ring onto the end of the CV axle shaft.
  • Fit the free wheeling hub face back on.
And you are done - easy huh! All up that should take about 1 hour per side. 


Here are some links to other relevant listings I have in my ebay store ...

Chinese CV (Budget price) ..

Japanese HDK ..


Hub Socket ..



These comes with a no questions asked free replacement warranty should you manage to break one. Just send back with proof of purchase and I send another to you for free.

This is a stocked item and ready to post with 24 hours of receiving your payment. We send these via Aus Post or couriers.

I accept PayPal and bank deposit. You will be automatically sent the bank account details once you buy. 

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Seller assumes all responsibility for this listing.

Postage and handling

Item location: Rye, VIC, Australia
Posting to: Worldwide
Domestic handling time
Will usually send within same business day if paid before 13:00 AEDST (excludes weekends and holidays). Expected post time may vary and is based on seller's order cut-off time.

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Item must be returned within
Refund will be given as
30 days after the buyer receives it
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The buyer is responsible for return postage costs.

Refunds by law: In Australia, consumers have a legal right to obtain a refund from a business for goods purchased if the goods are faulty, not fit for purpose or don't match description. More information at returns - opens in a new window or tab.

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Thanks for buying this hub socket from 4wdhubs.
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