Wave breaking represents one of the most interesting and challenging problems for fluid mechanics and physical oceagraphy. Over the last 15 years our understanding has undergone a dramatic leap forward, and wave breaking has emerged as a process whose physics is clarified and quantified. Ocean wave breaking plays the primary role in the air-sea exchange of momentum, mass and heat, and it is of significant importance for ocean remote sensing, coastal and ocean engineering, navigation and other practical applications. This book outlines the state of the art in our understanding of wave breaking and presents the main outstanding problems. It is a valuable resource for anyone interested in this topic: researchers, modellers, forecasters, engineers and graduate students in physical oceagraphy, meteorology and ocean engineering.
Alexander Babanin is a Professor in the Faculty of Engineering and Industrial Sciences at Swinburne University of Technology, Melbourne, Australia. His Bachelors degree in Physics and Masters degree in Physical Oceanography are from the Faculty of Physics at Moscow State University, Lomonosov, and his PhD on Spectral Characteristics of Surface Wind Wave Fields is from the Marine Hydrophysical Institute in Sevastopol. His research interests involve wind-generated waves, air-sea interaction and ocean turbulence, including dynamics of surface ocean waves, wave breaking and dissipation, air-sea boundary layer, extreme oceanic conditions, wave statistics, ocean mixing and remote sensing.