Forever on the Mountain: The Truth Behind One of Mountaineering's Most Controversial and Mysterious Disasters by James M. Tabor (Paperback, 2008)

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Just as good as Into Thin Air. A spellbinder. The fairest, most comprehensive account of [this episode] we're likely to see. Tabor analyzes this debacle with the doggedness of an investigative reporter and the technical knowledge of an experienced climber.