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Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life by William Finnegan (Paperback, 2016)

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Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life by William Finnegan (English) Paperback Book Free THE WILLIAM HILL SPORTS BOOK OF THE YEAR 2016 and WINNER OF THE PULITZER PRIZE FOR BIOGRAPHY 2016 Surfing only looks like a sport. To devotees, it is something else entirely: a beautiful addiction, a mental and physical study, a passionate way of life. William Finnegan first started surfing as a young boy in California and Hawaii. BARBARIAN DAYS is his immersive memoir of a life spent travelling the world chasing waves through the South Pacific, Australia, Asia, Africa, Peru and beyond. Finnegan describes the edgy yet enduring brotherhood forged among the swell of the surf; and recalling his own apprenticeship to the world's most famous and challenging waves, he considers the intense relationship formed between man, board and water.