About
All feedback (413)
- i***g (413)- Feedback left by buyer.Past yearVerified purchaseGreat deal, fast shipping, works perfectly!
- koups.com (49193)- Feedback left by buyer.Past monthVerified purchaseHope to deal with you again. Thank you.
- shielshop (3318)- Feedback left by buyer.Past 6 monthsVerified purchase🦉 Thanks to YOU - an AMAZING eBay Buyer! It was a true pleasure doing business with you and we'd be honored to have you visit our family-run shop again anytime! 10/10 A+++ Buyer 🦉
- india_store_2011 (18181)- Feedback left by buyer.Past 6 monthsVerified purchaseGreat communication. A pleasure to do business with.
- potomacestore (33253)- Feedback left by buyer.Past 6 monthsVerified purchaseGreat communication. A pleasure to do business with.
- d-a_liquidators2014 (6085)- Feedback left by buyer.Past 6 monthsVerified purchaseGood buyer, prompt payment, valued customer, highly recommended.
Reviews (3)

12 March 2018
Very nice
So many adjustments to customize for so many different set ups. Very nice.

12 March 2018
Crazy good build
In person it's a lot beefier looking. Real nice

07 March 2018
Great!
1 of 1 found this helpful Works great. The heat transfer is very good. Something you can't achieve with a regular copper clad board. I am using this with 104 Cree XT-E LEDs which will then be mounted to a 20" long heat sink.
At first when I tested the aluminum copper clad board I thought it was a phony board with copper plated directly on the aluminum because I was getting a short circuit (no resistance) between the copper and aluminum. The edges are cut which connects both metals around the edges. Even when sanding all around the board it's almost impossible to prevent the both metals from touching because the plastic separation barrier in between is thin. But after etching (Make a circuit that has a etched outer edge all around) there was no contact anymore between copper and aluminum.
The aluminum back needs to be masked when etching or the aluminum will get eaten up faster than the copper. I made that mistake and the aluminum outer edges of the board got eaten up leaving the thin but hard plastic separation barrier showing. It was nice to actually see the plastic (or resin) separation barrier and see it's thickness. It's thin but not like saran wrap, it's actually very stiff and thick enough. It has good thermal properties that prevent it from melting. It also didn't melt or create a short between the copper and aluminum when I used a hot air gun to heat the bottom of the board in order to reflow the solder for the surface mount LED's.