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- automotive_superstore (19345)- Feedback left by buyer.More than a year agoVerified purchaseGood buyer, prompt payment, valued customer, highly recommended.
- banresto (32933)- Feedback left by buyer.More than a year agoVerified purchaseThank you for an easy, pleasant transaction. Excellent buyer. A++++++.
- *****- Feedback left by buyer.More than a year agoVerified purchaseThank you for an easy, pleasant transaction. Excellent buyer. A++++++.
- iputtpond (29870)- Feedback left by buyer.More than a year agoVerified purchaseGreat communication. A pleasure to do business with.
- muhammbi-5 (84)- Feedback left by buyer.Past 6 monthsVerified purchaseGood buyer, prompt payment, valued customer, highly recommended.
- scooopie (74)- Feedback left by buyer.Past 6 monthsVerified purchaseExcellent buyer thanks ๐๐ฝ
Reviews (3)
02 March 2022
good quality item
It is a better quality than the cheap zinc alloy ones you buy from supermarkets. The comments can be misleading: e.g.. there is no plastic component holding the wire (that would be stupid considering the tension it is under).
Just one misgiving that I encounter all the time: in order to get very fine slices, you need to file out the slot that the roller adjusts into a little more. Even the finest slice setting in all these type of cheese slicers are too thick for me, and, I suspect, for many people.
All in all, good quality item though, and prompt service.
07 March 2024
Good quality - some mechanical/electrical skill required - a bit pricey.
Here are some notes I have regarding my October 2007 CRV
- Firstly I don't like the blatant advertising lie re 'last one...' as it is obviously still available. It is a scam tactic unworthy of a reputable company.
- Initial hic-up as many parts were missing (manual, hitch pin, shackles, Trailer Patch Harness), but Arrow Towbars responded swiftly and sent missing parts. This shows that they are a reputable company (despite a negligent workshop manager that allows an order to be sent with many parts missing).
Hardware Wiring:
- Fitting the hardware took me most of the day. It is thorough but reasonably well explained.
- Had to use the second diagram for the Bumper Skin cut-out (though the diagram said for 2010 models)
- Be careful to work out the mechanism of the trim plugs as they are quite fragile.
- I don't see the need to remove the light globes from the tail lights. Just suspend the Tail Light assemblies with some wire to the cargo door.
- Removing the Bumper Skin can be done by one person if one of the sides is supported while loosening the other side. Bumper Skin is surprisingly flimsy.
- It is probably easier to reassemble RH panels until you have done the wiring. This in order to drill the 31 dia hole from the outside as per diagram.
- Putting the Bumper Skin back together is easier than removing it.
Electrical Wiring:
- Both LH and RH Luggage Compartment Trim panels need removing (which is not clearly stated in the manual).
- It helps to remove the little panel at the top center as well. Then use largisch screw driver to lever and help popping the middle area of the panel.
!! Don't use a 32mm hole cutter instead of 31. Otherwise the grommet will need sicaflex or something to hold it in place! Actually, I think a 30mm one may be even better.
- Much easier to drill hole next to the grommet hole if drilling from inside out. BUT it will compromise the strength of that panel.
!! The exhaust muffler in my case was very close to the towbar, and caused some serious knocking. Probably caused by stretching the muffler rubbers on installation. I had to insert fireproof insulation (the stuff they use to insulate inner flus) between the surfaces. So far it is holding.
- When putting the inner panels back, ensure it doesn't push against any wiring.
Notwithstanding some issues, it all fitted nicely in the end. Just remember the whole process make take the best of 2 days if done singlehandedly for the first time.
11 April 2020
Good solid unit
Installation was relatively easy, and the brief instruction notes were accurate. Though more detail should have been given on how to remove the actual plastic part:
Once the screws and plugs are removed, you need to pry (not too forcefully) between the joint that runs along the length of it with a flat screwdriver, starting at one of the edges. You will notice some clips that run behind it. Push with the flat screwdriver onto each one in turn while pulling on the housing at those locations. Eventually the whole thing will come off.
The cutting out of the little section is very easy and can be done with a combination of a stanley knive and a hack saw. The material is all soft plastic.
The selftappers that need to be removed need a special 'star' (torx) bit, which can be found in most screwdriver bit sets.