Skip to main content

goodolboydws

About

We don t have a digital camera but do have decent speed internet.
Location: United StatesMember since: 13 December 2002

All Feedback (650)

jdsellz-1 (242)- Feedback left by buyer.
Past month
Verified purchase
Good buyer, prompt payment, valued customer, highly recommended.
sillymonkeyart (12308)- Feedback left by buyer.
Past year
Verified purchase
Good buyer, prompt payment, valued customer,**
sillymonkeyart (12308)- Feedback left by buyer.
Past year
Verified purchase
Good buyer, prompt payment, valued customer,**
sillymonkeyart (12308)- Feedback left by buyer.
Past year
Verified purchase
Good buyer, prompt payment, valued customer,**
ferrylife (1532)- Feedback left by buyer.
Past 6 months
Verified purchase
Great buyer, well communication. Thanks
mingli1026 (27495)- Feedback left by buyer.
Past 6 months
Verified purchase
Great communication. A pleasure to do business with.
Reviews (26)
Vintage Sears Penske DC Inductive Timing Light Model # 244.2138 in Hard Case
19 December 2019
WORKS GREAT (if you can still find one 40+ years old that still functions)
These MADE IN USA!!! (the exact 244.2138 "PENSKE" model) are getting harder to find, but WELL WORTH IT (if you can find one that still works) for the older model cars (or any with adjustable ignition timing). I just picked up a replacement one for my old one after 40+ YEARS OF USE. I'd dropped it a few times and repaired the cord when it got burnt (on a too-hot header pipe), but it just kept on going, and going..... My old one very recently conked out and it was MY OWN FAULT-for accidentally cross wiring it (in dim lighting) at the battery. I use a timing light more often these days for checking ignition wires, spark plugs and to see that the ignition is firing each plug reliably at idle and at speed than for checking the timing.
Hair Pin,10bg 1/8x1-15/16" by KOCH INDUSTRIES, INC.
24 May 2018
size as described
Compared to OTHER, similar products, this item's dimensions seem to be accurately described.
29 August 2007
good, long lived engine, VERY reliable car/not exciting
I've had 4 Crown Vics or Country Squires, all clones of this vehicle. Old cars are prone to rusting, and all rusty cars have rust related electrical and other issues eventually, like rusting brake lines, but the 5.0L engine CAN BE a very reliable one. Car has just too much weight/HP with the 5.0, to have good acc. at medium speeds in top gear. A GOOD 5.0L can run practically forever, so the slow and steady truly can win the race, (if your idea of winning is making a car's engine last a long time on the cheap), assuming you give it what it needs, and that's timely maintenance, and always GOOD OIL (I swear by semisynthetic Castrol) and FREQUENT OIL CHANGES. My last one made 215K before being front ended, and it was still basically driveable-the newer, smaller car was totaled. These are TANKS but so are all the full sized vans/large SUV's/pickups, and those get worse mileage. It's POSSIBLE to get decent mileage, for the weight of the vehicle, (which is over 4,000# before filling it with gas and cargo) IF you mostly drive conservatively. If you drive hard, fugetabotit. Cops in the Vic/sedan versions of this with THE SAME engine (a lighter vehicle) typically got 11-12mpg. An irritant-the gas tank this vintage is only 17-18 gals, so expect more gas stops than you might be used to with lighter, smaller cars, especially if you drive in the city a lot. Pure city fuel mileage for civilians will probably be 13-14 mpg especially if you don't try to keep up with lead foot traffic. On the highway, it's a whole different story. Lightly loaded (the car,not you) you should be able to get an EASY 20 mpg at 70 all day long with the A/C running, IF YOU GET ONE WITH GOOD COMPRESSION,& IF you can keep it in overdrive. With a heavy load,(or when towing) don't expect to use overdrive-it will be hunting from 4th-3rd whenever there is any grade, or headwind at all. Expect about 15-17 if you have to stay in 3rd. Overheating the engine&trans is a real possibility if you don't keep the engine rpms up under very heavy load conditions-if you stay out of OD then, it will be fine. Besides having the same engine with VERY minor differences, (such as different cam grinds), this car has the same type of BOXED frame that Ford uses for the F150. The steering&running gear is heavy duty, inexpensive& easy to find, mostly similar to what is underneath the F150's of the same vintage, although there are differences in brakes and rear axles, axle bearings and such. It has BIG rear drum brakes-(they are ENORMOUS on wagons), well balanced with the fronts for the weight distribution of the car. This car DOES NOT have antilock brakes, but you will probably never miss them as the rear braking is so linear and predictable. Having a lot of weight on them makes them grip really well with good tires, keeping their weight share instead of quickly unloading to the fronts under heavy braking like most cars with shorter wheelbases and less rear overhang would. People with back issues, take note: Comfortable, supportive seating is a big factor for many people and like many Fords of the era, the front seats aren't adjustable ENOUGH to suit the actual shape of many backs or backsides either. They fit me, but my wife HATES them. DEFINITELY try the seats before deciding about the car. If they don't agree with you, better pass-they'll only get less supportive with age. Update: Now have a 1989 Vic LS with 70K orig mi&no rust.
2 of 2 found this helpful