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- ruirui-3019 (49)- Feedback left by buyer.Past 6 monthsVerified purchaseGreat eBayer, Thanks very much
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Reviews (11)

05 March 2018
2005 Honda Accord EX V6
Worked great, took me about 20m. You’ll only need 11x of the bulbs for this model vehicle, leaving 3 extra socket-style LEDs. 2x front doors, 2x dome, 4x vanity mirrors, 1x back seat dome, 1x trunk, 1x tag light. A few tips; (1) the rear doors have red panels that don’t light up so don’t bother prying them off as you may break off the tabs - there are only empty sockets with no wiring in there. (2) the tag light needs a screwdriver inserted from the *left* only exposing the harness which pulls out of the housing. (3) it helps to have both a skinny screwdriver and a bone/trim tool of some sort.

18 August 2019
OEM watch strap
OEM watch strap and deployment clasp. Just what I needed, and half the cost from the manufacturer.

11 October 2017
Mazda CX-5: Good if you know what you’re doing
1 of 1 found this helpful It’s a nice item at a great price, with a few caveats as there aren’t any instructions, and I question the choice of included hardware.
A few tips:
1. The dead pedal is a little short, but from what I can see this is normal.
2. The brake pedal I attached to the factory rubber, then slipped on b/c the rubber backings w/nibs are unattached single piece(s) and will slip out of the holes when depressing the pedal if drilled directly into the metal since the brake pedal is irregularly shaped. When installed this way, the bottom screw will be too long and rub, so I used a shorter flathead bolt I had lying around and skipped the bottom nut since I screwed that’s in after installing the pedal.
3. For the accelerator, use the 2 long screws on top as there is plenty of clearance, even with the kick-down engaged. The rest are shorter. I noted the pedal is slightly incorrect in dimensions (width and bottom edge by a couple of degrees)... it’s OK and you can still get proper coverage if you position the pedal carefully, though.
4. When using the nuts for the accelerator, it’s impossible to slip the nut in the lower right bolt, so don’t bother. A tapping screw would work better for that one, but I just drilled a hole small enough so the bolt would grab w/o the bolt.
5. Use a needle nose plier or a spanner to hold the backing nut in place. I screwed in each bolt, hand-installed the nut, backed out the bolt enough so the attached nut is flush, grabbed the nut with pliers, then re-screwed in the bolt while holding the nut to get it tightened.
6. If drilling the metal brake pedal (I didn’t), use titanium drill bits.
7. Use a C-clamp and a cloth, or plastic clamp of some kind to hold each pedal in position while drilling the holes.
8. For the bolts into the plastic accelerator pedal, drill a slightly smaller hole than the hardware diameter so the bolts self-tap in plastic pieces. Always drill a starter home with a small bit first. A punch or wax pencil helps get the holes started in metal.
Suggestions for the seller:
A. Re-measure the accelerator pedal size and angles.
B. Use a tapping screw for the accelerator bottom right hardware.
C. For the brake pedal, bond the rubber backing to the pedal or provide a stiff backing so it can be directly screwed to the metal pedal w/o the rubber nibs sinking in when depressed.
D. Re-measure the dead pedal to provide additional vertical coverage.
E. Instructions!!!
In summary, it looks great when done and 10x cheaper than OEM, but it’s kind of a pain to install unless you’ve done it before.