About
Reviews (3)
25 October 2017
Suprisingly good
1 of 1 found this helpful I have my doubts about the quality of products that have Asian fonts written on them, but this one seems like a step out of the norm: build quality is really good (hard durable plastic), it does not produce any heat or noise during work, only thing I found a bit "off" was the output voltage that is 118v on my multimeter, but my multimeter might be a bit off.
I am using it to power my Logitech Z623 speakers (bought in USA), and they are working perfectly.
29 March 2016
Thermaltake Dr Power
Only reason I am not recommending this one is because you can buy "Thermaltake Dr Power II" that has more options and is better value for money by my opinion, since it has more options for testing and better visibility (and exact voltage reading).
One thing that this version has and "Thermaltake Dr Power II" doesn't is FDD power tester. And no one uses that anymore. Also the connector for it is a bit wonky and you can bend it or even pull it out (floppy has a locking pin on bottom side, so be sure you pull it apart with nail or screwdriver before trying to remove it).
Its still a good quality device, a robust plastic case is sure to survive a lot of torture, and its somewhat smaller than "Thermaltake Dr Power II", but if price difference is not a problem for you, buy Dr. Power II. I also recommend using guides that I posted for "Thermaltake Dr Power II".
28 March 2016
Thermaltake Dr Power II review
2 of 2 found this helpful I already had this device few years ago, and it recently fried (due to my misuse) so I will give some points on how to use it properly, since user manual is a bit wonky about it:
1. If you dont have PSU with I/O switch, it is a good thing to make a PSU cable with I/O switch, so you can avoid device being on current before its properly plugged (alternatively Extension Cord with I/O switch will do). Everything needs to be off before connecting.
2. Before using this device to test PSU, a simple clip test is recommended. Just Google "turn on PSU with paper clip" and do that before testing it with this device. This will prevent frying device in some extreme cases. Also if you listened to my 1st advice, you can just paperclip pins and then turn PSU on via switch, and avoid potential shocks xD
3. When you finished cycling through tests, wait for PSU fans to stop, then switch off current using I/O switch on PSU, or PSU cable (mentioned in my 1st note), or pressing switch on Extension Cord. Then wait for screen to turn off, and then disconnect this device.
4. In cases where SATA connectors have 4 wires (missing 3.3V on some cheaper PSUs, which is OK since they use 5V line to create 3.3V), tester will report SATA as faulty (RED). Just check if voltages 12V and 5V are within norm, and you can ignore this false positive.
_________________________________
As for my review, this device is a must if you work as an IT and work with hardware, since most of problems are caused by faulty PSUs. The device is really robust (made from high quality plastic), and you can see Thermaltake doesn't fu*k around with their name. Quality is 5/5, and usefulness is 10/5. Highly recommend this one. And its fairly cheep, its cheaper than most good quality PSUs, and it will pay off really fast.